Pedernales

 

The extreme southwestern tip of the Dominican Republic is one of the most spectacularly beautiful regions of the entire country, yet because of its isolation and lack of conventional tourism infrastructure, it remains one of the most under-appreciated. However, for travelers deliberately seeking the unconventional and rare, the southwest, with its two gigantic national parks, crystal beaches and diverse geography is rich with possibility.

The city of Barahona, about four hours west of Santo Domingo, is the gateway to the southwest and offers all the amenities of a big city, but the town of Pedernales on the border with Haiti is ideally positioned to provide easy access to both the national parks, including the famous Bahia de Las Aguilas. There are three guaguas direct from Santo Domingo to Pedernales daily at the extremely budget rate of RD$300 (US$9), but the drive can take anywhere from five to seven hours, and guaguas are frequently overcrowded and un-air conditioned. A logistically complicated but more comfortable option is to take a Caribe Tours bus to Barahona and meet up with the Santo Domingo guagua there for the remainder of the trip to Pedernales. If you choose to go that route, be sure to suggest that Caribe Tours add a daily direct service to Pedernales.

The hotels in Pedernales are small and don’t offer much in the way of additional luxuries but are comfortable after a long day of exploring. Hostal Doña Chava offers small, clean rooms with single or queen-size beds for between RD$400-700 (US$12-20) a night and complementary breakfast upon request for the no-frills traveler.

Hotel D’Oleo Mendez, which offers non-air conditioned accommodations for RD$450 (US$13) a night and air-conditioned rooms of varying sizes for between RD$800-1000 (US$25-30) a night is also the place to go for delicious traditional cuisine at very reasonable prices. Menu highlights include dorada, prepared however you like it, and lambi (conch). All fish catches are fresh and best accompanied by one of Señora d’Oleo’s colorful salads or a heaping plate of homemade shoestring fries.

The Bahia de Las Aguilas – Bay of Eagles – is the crown jewel of the southwest and a focal point in the battle between conventional and alternative tourism development on the island. A spectacular stretch of calm, clear water and deep white sand fringed by the protected desert of Jaragua National Park, its rare beauty and extreme isolation are precisely what makes it so attractive to visitors and resort developers. A visit to the Bahia today will not only be a unique and memorable experience, it will direct much-needed revenue towards the development and preservation of the area independent of multinational hotel chains.

From Pedernales, you can hire a motoconcho to take you to the nearby fishing village of Las Cuevas, which derives its name from the large caves carved into the petrified coral cliffs along this part of the coast. The only way to get to the Bahia is to hire a local fisherman to take you in a lancha (motorboat) for RD$1000 (US$30). It is possible to camp overnight in the bay, but you will have to negotiate with your lancha driver for a next-day pickup.

A day trip to the Hoyo del Pelempito in Sierra de Bahoruco National Park is challenging to organize without a basic knowledge of Spanish and the art of haggling due to the lack of a formal tourism infrastructure in and around the park, but determined visitors will find it well worth the effort. The Hoyo, an ancient canyon carved by the same tectonic forces that pushed five mountain ranges out of the ocean to create the island of Hispaniola, is a powerful sight, a deeply moving reward for the adventurous tourist.

Currently the only way to see the Hoyo is by motoconcho; drivers will generally ask between RD$1500 and $2000 (US$45-$60) for the trip. The road through the park is paved for about thirty kilometers, but the Hoyo itself is accessible only by a steep, winding dirt road that was badly damaged by Tropical Storm Noel and would be virtually impossible to travel by car.

Travel by motoconcho also provides a much more complete sensual experience of the park: you can feel the change in the texture of the air as you climb from arid desert to humid tropical forest, and breathe the smell of fir sap as you suddenly find yourself in a cool, temperate mixed forest more reminiscent of the Canadian Shield than the southwestern Dominican Republic. Have your driver cut the engine and listen to the perfect silence that rushes to envelope you at the higher altitudes. There is little in the way of signage, designated viewing platforms, or other interpretive features in the park, so be on the lookout for gaps in the trees that will afford you a stunning panorama of the desert and the distant Caribbean coast.

At the end of the paved road, you will come to a gate. If there is a guard on duty, be prepared to pay an entry fee. The price isn’t posted, but RD$200 (US$6.00) per motoconcho is a reasonable offering for access to the Hoyo. No two people will react to the view that greets you at the end of the trail in the same way; it speaks directly to the soul, and what it says to yours will be as unique as a fingerprint.

For a different experience of Sierra de Bahoruco Park, Santo Domingo-based Tody Tours offers guided birdwatching and hiking tours. For US$150 per person (US$75 for the second person in a couple) plus the cost of vehicle rental, accommodations and food (some meals are included), ornithologist and expert guide Kate Wallace takes you on a five-day exploration of the diverse ecosystems of the southwest region, with stops in Barahona, Puerto Escondido, Cachote, and the subterranean salt water Enriquillo Lake. The tour promises sightings of at least 27 of the 30 species of birds endemic to the Dominican Republic, with an optional extension to find the critically endangered Ridgeway’s hawk during its nesting season from mid-March to mid-May.

Wherever your southwestern adventure leads you, remember the golden rule of wilderness exploration: take only pictures, leave only footprints, and you’ll be doing your small part to ensure this amazing landscape remains pristine for many years to come.
~Alexandra Pope, eatdrinksleep.com

 

Things to do:

Visit Parque Nacional Jaragua
Visit the top bird-watching spot in the country, Laguna de Oviedo.
Swim at Bahía de la Aguilas .
Visit the offshore island of Isla Beata.