When faced with the number of choices lining Cabarete’s beachfront, it’s easy to pass on this seafood restaurant in favor of others: its bare walls and tables covered with plastic décor is rather 'ho-hum'; and the bow-tied waiters in this young, hip environment seem offbeat. But, as with the live lobster tank fronting the building, you have to get up close to know what’s there.

The first indication that this isn’t your ordinary fish shack is the presentation of an extensive wine list before the main menu appears. To begin your meal, sample the flavorful fish consommé. The chef also does well with shrimp, either with pastis sauce or, more zestily, with curry and garlic.

Casa del Pescador also serves lunch. On a hot day, the seafood salads are very refreshing, as is the grilled octopus in spicy Creole sauce.

(Photos: Alejandro Díaz)